Brake pad contact

[AlexT99]

Hello,

I had all new discs and pads front & rear on 18/05/22 @ 25,373miles.
Car now has 25,526miles on the clock.
So the car has done less than 200miles since the new ones were fitted. Polo 6R 2017 plate.

I had a look at the new discs & pads on the day they were done & I noticed that the front pads were not making full contact with the discs. The inside edge of the pads are making contact, but not the outside edge. Obviously this is not what you want with new discs & pads so I looked it up online. There was some suggestions that either the wrong pads had been forced in, the pads were not seated correctly in the calipers, the clips were bent etc etc.
But I don't know, maybe they're meant to wear in until they eventually make full contact with the disc?
Well 2 days after I had them fitted I had an epileptic seizure. So I had to stop driving immediately & surrender my licence to the DVLA.

So excuse the state of the pads & discs. The car has been parked on a driveway for 15 months not in use and the discs rusted up. I have drove around the block braking to attempt to grind the rust off with the pads but no joy due to the weird contact. The wheels also make a scraping sound when just driving/rolling. Like the pads are in constant contact with the discs. But this didn't happen when they were first fitted, it's just since they rusted up.
Yes I am devastated about the state of the new discs and pads. Cost me something like £760 to get them replaced.

What do you think? Doesn't look normal to me. But I'm not exactly a car expert. So I need some advice here.

Will attach photos of front & rear pads/discs as the rear ones don't exactly look flat either. They look like they're flat for the most part but have a curved inner part creating a shadow. As if they've been fitted too close to the inside so the pad is slightly off the disc.

Car was parked with the handbrake up.

FRONT PASSENGER SIDE:

IMG_20230807_184137.jpg (4.22 MiB) Viewed 1342 times

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IMG_20230807_184345.jpg (3.65 MiB) Viewed 1342 times

IMG_20230807_184238.jpg (2.76 MiB) Viewed 1342 times

FRONT DRIVER SIDE:

IMG_20230807_184635.jpg (2.5 MiB) Viewed 1342 times

IMG_20230807_184656.jpg (2.64 MiB) Viewed 1342 times

IMG_20230807_195736.jpg (4.48 MiB) Viewed 1342 times

REARS:

IMG_20230807_184516.jpg (2.92 MiB) Viewed 1342 times

IMG_20230807_184614.jpg (2.01 MiB) Viewed 1342 times

IMG_20230807_200045.jpg (2.85 MiB) Viewed 1342 times

IMG_20230807_200146.jpg (4.31 MiB) Viewed 1342 times

IMG_20230807_195650.jpg (4.24 MiB) Viewed 1342 times

It's possible the garage I went to ordered the wrong type and then did some fuckery to get them to fit. Which might explain how there's such an angle on the face of the pads.
I don't know.
Please tell me it's not as bad as it looks

[Bepis]

Sorry to hear about your seizure hopefully you're still on the up

The front pads look a bit funky but I think that's more just from the camera angle. They seem to be making full contact but with the time they were sat a fair amount of rust would build up as you mentioned meaning you won't have 100% pad and disc contact until the rust is gone from the face.

Although there is definitely quite a sizeable chamfer on the front pads. I think if you were to take a picture with the phone up against the disc face you see a decent contact patch. Attached is a picture of pads for the 256mm front discs which I'm 99% sure are on your car being the 90ps model.

The rears look fine as well but just the aformetnioned rust on the disc face.

The scraping noise is either rust on the disc face scraping against the pad or a caliper may have seized in the time it was sat. With the handbrake being left on my money would be on one of the rears as they also have a tendency of collecting a lot of crap.

£760 seems a little steep considering the cost of the parts from the likes of ATE, Pagid, etc probably doesn't come near £300.

I'd take it for a longer drive with some higher-speed braking for example a national limit dual carriageway with some roundabouts after some of the rust has been cleared off driving on some slower roads to try and get the discs as clean as possible.

Once that's done it'll be fairly easy to see a seized caliper as the rust will still be there in a section of the disc.

Maybe consider a tank of momentum or vpower (whichever is cheapest or easiest to get) to help clear out the fuel system and the long drive will also help with getting the moisture out of the oil if you don't wish to change it.

Also being a 2017 yours is a 6C.

Hopefully, all that helps

[RUM4MO]

I'm sorry to hear about your health issues, but this car is just a victim of circumstances, and nothing more.

I'd suggest if you want to return it to proper running order, you hand it in to a garage for a bit of all round re-commissioning after its enforced lack of use.

[AlexT99]

Sorry to hear about your seizure hopefully you're still on the up

The front pads look a bit funky but I think that's more just from the camera angle. They seem to be making full contact but with the time they were sat a fair amount of rust would build up as you mentioned meaning you won't have 100% pad and disc contact until the rust is gone from the face.

Although there is definitely quite a sizeable chamfer on the front pads. I think if you were to take a picture with the phone up against the disc face you see a decent contact patch. Attached is a picture of pads for the 256mm front discs which I'm 99% sure are on your car being the 90ps model.

The rears look fine as well but just the aformetnioned rust on the disc face.

The scraping noise is either rust on the disc face scraping against the pad or a caliper may have seized in the time it was sat. With the handbrake being left on my money would be on one of the rears as they also have a tendency of collecting a lot of crap.

£760 seems a little steep considering the cost of the parts from the likes of ATE, Pagid, etc probably doesn't come near £300.

I'd take it for a longer drive with some higher-speed braking for example a national limit dual carriageway with some roundabouts after some of the rust has been cleared off driving on some slower roads to try and get the discs as clean as possible.

Once that's done it'll be fairly easy to see a seized caliper as the rust will still be there in a section of the disc.

Maybe consider a tank of momentum or vpower (whichever is cheapest or easiest to get) to help clear out the fuel system and the long drive will also help with getting the moisture out of the oil if you don't wish to change it.

Also being a 2017 yours is a 6C.

Hopefully, all that helps

Ah I get it. So the VIN says 6R because the chassis IS the 6R chassis, but there are other differences in the model in terms of engine, electronics, bodywork etc.
For context the car is a Polo Match Edition 1.2TSI 90PS.
Stop-start: yes
Automatic post-collision braking: no
Adaptive cruise control: no
Standard manual cruise control: yes
Heated wing mirrors: yes
Colour touch screen infotainment: yes
Parking sensors front & back: yes
Satnav: no
Android auto/Apple carplay: yes
Automatic wipers: yes
Automatic headlights: yes
Aircon: yes

[AlexT99]

I'm sorry to hear about your health issues, but this car is just a victim of circumstances, and nothing more.

I'd suggest if you want to return it to proper running order, you hand it in to a garage for a bit of all round re-commissioning after its enforced lack of use.

It's booked in for it's MOT tomorrow. I hope it's just gonna pass. As it has hardly been used since it's last one! But engine coolant(the pink stuff) is under minimum limit. Oil level seems ok although it's well overdue for a service. So as soon as it's got it's MOT and TAX, it'll be going in for a full service.
Do you know if engine coolant is replaced/topped off in a service?

What about having some things reset?
I have fitted a new battery as the battery completely died on me. But now stop-start isn't working and EPC light is on.
I suspect the new battery needs to be coded using VCDS from what I have read.
I've also read that a throttle body adaptation needs to be performed after a prolonged loss of power. Otherwise throttle issues can result. Loss of power, stalling at higher rpms and speeds. Rough idling. Etc.

Does anyone have some expertise in this area?
I'd rather not buy the kit and have a go. So if anything, it would be nice if a garage can do it for me.
But I read somewhere that the 6R(and maybe 6C) use the CAN Gateway for battery management system. So it's not coded in the usual area as other cars

[AlexT99]

Sorry to hear about your seizure hopefully you're still on the up

The front pads look a bit funky but I think that's more just from the camera angle. They seem to be making full contact but with the time they were sat a fair amount of rust would build up as you mentioned meaning you won't have 100% pad and disc contact until the rust is gone from the face.

Although there is definitely quite a sizeable chamfer on the front pads. I think if you were to take a picture with the phone up against the disc face you see a decent contact patch. Attached is a picture of pads for the 256mm front discs which I'm 99% sure are on your car being the 90ps model.

The rears look fine as well but just the aformetnioned rust on the disc face.

The scraping noise is either rust on the disc face scraping against the pad or a caliper may have seized in the time it was sat. With the handbrake being left on my money would be on one of the rears as they also have a tendency of collecting a lot of crap.

£760 seems a little steep considering the cost of the parts from the likes of ATE, Pagid, etc probably doesn't come near £300.

I'd take it for a longer drive with some higher-speed braking for example a national limit dual carriageway with some roundabouts after some of the rust has been cleared off driving on some slower roads to try and get the discs as clean as possible.

Once that's done it'll be fairly easy to see a seized caliper as the rust will still be there in a section of the disc.

Maybe consider a tank of momentum or vpower (whichever is cheapest or easiest to get) to help clear out the fuel system and the long drive will also help with getting the moisture out of the oil if you don't wish to change it.

Also being a 2017 yours is a 6C.

Hopefully, all that helps

The front pads I have look nothing like that. Those are flat and uniform whereas mine are L shaped/wedge shaped. With an obvious ridge.
On the passenger side outer pad it's making about 12-15mm of contact and the drivers side outer pad is making about 18-20mm of contact.

Is anyone able to upload a picture of their pads making contact with the disc? Preferably 6C / 6R but any will do for comparison

[ciclo]

I'm sorry to hear about your health issues, but this car is just a victim of circumstances, and nothing more.

I'd suggest if you want to return it to proper running order, you hand it in to a garage for a bit of all round re-commissioning after its enforced lack of use.

+1

That car needs a complete overhaul (regardless of repair costs).




---
Please, tell us what tell you on the MOT, thanks.
BTW, congratulations on installing the new battery and being able to move the car out of that place after two years without use. viewtopic.php?p=599157#p599157

[spartacus68]

Sorry to hear your health issues. The pads are probably fine. If I remember correctly there’s an angle chamfer on front pads.

Volkswagen pistons do tend to seize. I rebuilt mine 50k miles all round last year with a brake kit from Autodoc, so new dust seals, square seals, ‘o’ rings and a brake fluid change. I also added the rear handbrake return springs and transformed the feel.

At the very least I would get the brakes dismantled, surface rust removed, clean guides and reseat pads with a light smear of ceramic grease. Brake fluid is due every 2 years too. It does take a good couple of hundred miles to bed in new pads and discs, so a few controlled stops would be in order too.

[Bepis]

I'm sorry to hear about your health issues, but this car is just a victim of circumstances, and nothing more.

I'd suggest if you want to return it to proper running order, you hand it in to a garage for a bit of all round re-commissioning after its enforced lack of use.

Another +1, an inspection and a service are never a bad thing to do.

On the subject of the brakes, ATE parts are sub £200 for front and rear discs and pads if they unfortunately need replacing again.

Try and get the vehicle information document for your car from your local dealership's service department. That will give you all the PR codes for what's fitted to your car making getting the correct brake parts much easier if you don't want the garage to source the parts and they're happy for your to get them yourself.

The list attached should be the correct parts, but I can't be certain without the PR codes.

It's booked in for it's MOT tomorrow. I hope it's just gonna pass. As it has hardly been used since it's last one! But engine coolant(the pink stuff) is under minimum limit. Oil level seems ok although it's well overdue for a service. So as soon as it's got it's MOT and TAX, it'll be going in for a full service.
Do you know if engine coolant is replaced/topped off in a service?

What about having some things reset?
I have fitted a new battery as the battery completely died on me. But now stop-start isn't working and EPC light is on.
I suspect the new battery needs to be coded using VCDS from what I have read.
I've also read that a throttle body adaptation needs to be performed after a prolonged loss of power. Otherwise throttle issues can result. Loss of power, stalling at higher rpms and speeds. Rough idling. Etc.

Does anyone have some expertise in this area?
I'd rather not buy the kit and have a go. So if anything, it would be nice if a garage can do it for me.
But I read somewhere that the 6R(and maybe 6C) use the CAN Gateway for battery management system. So it's not coded in the usual area as other cars

Coolant under minimum won't fail an MOT as long as it isn't so low the warning light is on and will usually get topped off in a service.
Having stop-start your battery will need coding in which I'd get done ASAP so you don't reduce the life of your new battery too much from potential overcharging.
Not sure about throttle body adaptations, the only time I found they were needed was when I took one off my old 9n3 (2008) to give it a clean. You can probably get it done at the same time as getting the battery coded in as a precaution.

Some battery coding information for your reference:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJAScg6JrYI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=48w9Cg4ObEk

Good luck with the MOT

[amer6R]

go on motorway and do around 5 hard stops, then drive the car normally for 10 minutes.

[AlexT99]

Well it failed the MOT as the engine light was on. As well as EPC light, and apparently my nearside headlamp was aiming too high. Strange how headlights move when not in use I think garage just wanted an extra £40 on top of the MOT. So made up a headlight adjustment.

They "cleared" all the codes as well but upon driving the car the EPC light comes on after like 15mph and driving it further causes the engine light to come on.
I'm not getting any turbo boost. and I'm getting a significant reduction in engine power. Weird artificial rev limits in each gear.

I know a lot of people have experienced warning light madness after a battery change. And that does not go away unless it's coded properly and then the warnings can be cleared.

Question: Does anyone know the correct coding procedure for an EFB battery on a 2017 6C? With a Vag-Com?
The garage I went to has a Vag-Com but I think they mainly use it for clearing codes.

They did give me a code P00AF which I have no clue about either

[RUM4MO]

If the workshop has VCDS, as you said they have, they should know how to code in that battery, they will find where to do that in the CAN Gateway controller, just adding a single digit, ie 1 into the existing serial number will sort things out - as long as the battery capacity is the same as the old one, if not that will need changed as well.

[Bepis]

If the workshop has VCDS, as you said they have, they should know how to code in that battery, they will find where to do that in the CAN Gateway controller, just adding a single digit, ie 1 into the existing serial number will sort things out - as long as the battery capacity is the same as the old one, if not that will need changed as well.

Don't forget the type as well: EFB or AGM.

[RUM4MO]

I was assuming that the minimum was being done to get/keep this car moving, so EFB as original.

Edit:- well hopefully it is another EFB!

[AlexT99]

If the workshop has VCDS, as you said they have, they should know how to code in that battery, they will find where to do that in the CAN Gateway controller, just adding a single digit, ie 1 into the existing serial number will sort things out - as long as the battery capacity is the same as the old one, if not that will need changed as well.

Don't forget the type as well: EFB or AGM.

Just to confirm...
The battery coding is done in the CAN-Gateway controller on my 2017 6C?
Can you explain to me using layman's terms what the most common battery coding method/area is? Because I'm sure wherever I take it will be confused if it's done a slightly less common way than your Mercs/Jags etc

Found this http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.ph ... eplacement
but it's like reading a different language.
I want to be able to say a short phrase to the mechanic / tech so that he instantly gets the message on how to code the battery on my particular car (6C)

Something like "it's done on the CAN Gateway" "Just 1 digit of the serial number needs to be changed" "and the rating from 59Ah to 60Ah"

For info the old battery was Exide 59Ah EFB 640EN/CCA
New is Exide 60Ah EFB 640EN/CCA
so almost identical specs