Fair to all points,
Am waiting on the new bolt to arrive so I can get on with it, engine is all back together now, took sump and strainer off and checked it all over.
Got rid of anything old an worn and engine turns by hand / tool fine so once its all renewed I can add oil and get pressure built up for a start.
1st time getting an engine down that bare for a car I wanted to attempt to fix.
Polo 1.2 6R CGP Engine rebuild
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UKWaffles
- New
- Posts: 11
- Joined: Fri Sep 11, 2026 1:20 pm
- Drives: Polo 1.2 6R 2009
- Location: Portsmouth
Re: Polo 1.2 6R CGP Engine rebuild
So been able to get the engine back together and running somewhat,
However when it starts to get up to temperature the oil filter housing leaks quite bad, replaced the gasket and attempted to replace it with a new housing but this one also has the same fitment issues.
Neither get close enough to seal and the leak remains, the filter housing as far as I can tell is correct and origional to the car.
It just hits the block and the timing cover, its not been off the car until the leak appeared now I can't seem to find a way to get it to fit back.
However when it starts to get up to temperature the oil filter housing leaks quite bad, replaced the gasket and attempted to replace it with a new housing but this one also has the same fitment issues.
Neither get close enough to seal and the leak remains, the filter housing as far as I can tell is correct and origional to the car.
It just hits the block and the timing cover, its not been off the car until the leak appeared now I can't seem to find a way to get it to fit back.
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ciclo
- Bling Bling Diamond Member
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- Joined: Sun Feb 24, 2013 10:20 am
- Drives: 6R'13/G7.5'19
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Re: Polo 1.2 6R CGP Engine rebuild
The issue isn't the oil filter housing itself (that's why the new one doesn't fit either). The cylinder head is physically colliding with the oil filter housing bell, preventing it from sitting flush against the engine block and causing the oil leak.
According to the VW factory manual for the 1.2 CGPA engine, the cylinder head must be lowered perfectly vertical onto its dowel pins (alignment guides). If the head shifted even a fraction of a millimeter during assembly, or if the front timing cover was tightened out of alignment, it invades the housing's space.
How to fix it:
1. Slacken the cylinder head / timing cover bolts: Slightly back off the bolts just enough to allow a tiny bit of movement and play between the head and the block.
2. Seat the oil filter housing first: While the head has some wiggle room, insert the oil filter housing and hand-tighten its bolts all the way in. This will mechanically force the cylinder head into its correct alignment relative to the housing.
3. Final torque sequence: Once the oil filter housing is flush and bolted down without any interference, re-torque the cylinder head bolts back to factory specs following the official sequence.
According to the VW factory manual for the 1.2 CGPA engine, the cylinder head must be lowered perfectly vertical onto its dowel pins (alignment guides). If the head shifted even a fraction of a millimeter during assembly, or if the front timing cover was tightened out of alignment, it invades the housing's space.
How to fix it:
1. Slacken the cylinder head / timing cover bolts: Slightly back off the bolts just enough to allow a tiny bit of movement and play between the head and the block.
2. Seat the oil filter housing first: While the head has some wiggle room, insert the oil filter housing and hand-tighten its bolts all the way in. This will mechanically force the cylinder head into its correct alignment relative to the housing.
3. Final torque sequence: Once the oil filter housing is flush and bolted down without any interference, re-torque the cylinder head bolts back to factory specs following the official sequence.
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UKWaffles
- New
- Posts: 11
- Joined: Fri Sep 11, 2026 1:20 pm
- Drives: Polo 1.2 6R 2009
- Location: Portsmouth
Re: Polo 1.2 6R CGP Engine rebuild
Yikes, what horrible design.
The Housing was fully seated on the engine when the head went back on with its dowel pins. I have had to take it off since the old gasket was leaking and hard as rock after 110K miles.
I really don't want to have to disassemble the entire top end for a filter housing....seems a bit much
The Housing was fully seated on the engine when the head went back on with its dowel pins. I have had to take it off since the old gasket was leaking and hard as rock after 110K miles.
I really don't want to have to disassemble the entire top end for a filter housing....seems a bit much